Update, in case it helps anyone here.
I raised this through Developer Contact (App Review → App Review Status). It issues a Case ID and acknowledged by email the same day, and a named person from Developer Support replied the next day - which is more than the forums or Resolution Center produced for me. Worth knowing that form exists; it's a different one from the App Review contact page, which has no status option.
They expedited one of my two submissions as a one-time exception. It moved to In Review and was approved shortly after - so again, the wait was queue time, not review time. The second is still queued and I'm sorting that out with them.
One detail from their reply that I hadn't seen documented: if an expedited app is rejected, you don't need to request expediting again - a resubmitted binary or metadata returns to the expedite queue automatically.