Just to answer my own question: I did eventually figure out that I needed to build the macOS app with a proper development profile, one of those so-obvious-I-overlooked-it problems. There's more official documentation up here - https://help.apple.com/xcode/mac/current/#/dev295cc0fae, as well a few more gotchas of my own in another forum thread here - https://developer.apple.com/forums/thread/653004.
Topic:
App Store Distribution & Marketing
SubTopic:
App Review
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